| (Copyright (c) 2005 Los Angeles Times)
CORRECTION: SEE CORRECTION APPENDED; Tanning bed
law -- An article about tanning in Thursday's Calendar Weekend
section stated that California legislation passed last year bars 14-
to 18-year-olds from using UV tanning beds unless a doctor
prescribes it for treatment. In fact, the law states that 14- to
18-year-olds must present written consent from a parent or legal
guardian.
IN the dog days of summer, everything seems to
slow. When the temperature's high, motivation is lackluster and so
are many of our major entertainment options. Most of the blockbuster
movies have opened, the big concerts have swung through town,
museums have unveiled their major exhibits. Whatever beach reads
we'd stocked for the season are dwindling to their last pages.
Yet one activity continues unabated throughout
Southern California: pursuing the perfect tan. Whether it's
out-of-towners staking out blanket space on the beach or movie stars
paying for salon-applied tanners or contestants in a bikini contest
using a combination of tactics, the ritual of tanning continues in
full force.
No method is perfect. Sun worshipers, in evidence
year-round in Southern California but especially in the summer, have
the option of altering their skin color outdoors free, but that
process can lead to long-term skin damage and, in some cases,
cancer. Plus, acquiring the perfect tan via the sun takes a lot of
time. Ultraviolet tanning beds take less time but cost money. The
spray-on tans offered in tanning salons, beauty spas and gyms take
about a minute but cost even more money and last only a week. And
the sunless tanners that can be purchased at drug and department
stores don't last long and look pretty terrible if applied
incorrectly.
Nonetheless, large chunks of the population soldier
on.
Most Americans think people not only look better
with a tan but also look healthier, according to a recent survey by
the American Academy of Dermatology. During the summer, that
prevailing attitude is mirrored nearly everywhere you look, from the
beach to the grocery store to celebrities both on- and
offscreen.
Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Aniston and Jessica
Simpson are among the many starlets radiating a warm, seemingly
sun-kissed glow. How they got that glow is anyone's guess, though
the trend among celebrities seems to be faked rather than baked.
Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan, among others, admit to using
spray-on, sunless tans.
Sunless tanners -- the lotions, gels, mousses and
aerosols that can be applied at home or professionally in beauty
spas -- are the fastest-growing sun-care products on the market
today, just as bronzers -- makeups that create the illusion of a tan
-- are the fastest-growing segment in cosmetics. That's in addition
to the 28 million Americans who use UV tanning beds and the millions
more who use mist-on sprays, according to the Indoor Tanning
Assn.
The American Academy of Dermatology divides skin
types into six categories, all of which can burn, whether it's the
very fair, porcelain-white Type I or the very dark Type VI. Just
five burns in a person's lifetime double the risk of skin cancer,
thus the common dermatologist refrain: Do not go in the sun without
wearing sunscreen of at least SPF 15.
But wander out to any Southern California beach
during the summer and the sand is dotted with sun worshipers
ignoring doctors' advice. On any given day, thousands and thousands
of people are taking advantage of the area's most plentiful and free
tanning resource to bronze their skin the old-fashioned way.
"When you say summertime, what does that mean? It
means sun. Warm temperatures. It doesn't mean a white body," said
Cheryl McCauley, a deeply tanned, self-described "sun lover" who was
lying out on Venice Beach in a turquoise bikini one recent Friday
afternoon.
McCauley, 56, and her husband, Jerry, 58, were
vacationing from Chicago, where they'd gotten a running start on
matching tans the color of perfect, fire-roasted marshmallows.
"I just think people look better aesthetically when
they have a little bit of color, whether it's a dark tan or a little
bit of a tan," said McCauley, who was using a tanning oil with SPF
6. "That's, of course, contradictory to what they say the sun does
to you."
As far as the dermatology academy is concerned, the
short-term cosmetic benefits of a tan acquired with ultraviolet
light never warrant the long-term risks, whether that tan is
acquired outdoors in the sun or indoors on a UV tanning bed. This
year, 1 million new cases of skin cancer will be diagnosed in the
U.S.; nearly 11,000 Americans will die of the disease. Of the
country's white population, which is at the greatest risk for skin
cancer, one in 70 has a lifetime risk of developing melanoma, the
deadliest form of the disease.
A handful of doctors came forward recently to
advocate limited sun exposure, citing the benefits of vitamin D. It
varies by skin type, but "in L.A. in August at noon, we're talking
three to five minutes on the hands, arms and legs, two to three
times a week followed by good sun protection," says Dr. Michael
Holick, a Boston University professor who's gotten a lot of flak
from the dermatology academy for his book "The UV Advantage."
The premise of Holick's book: The vitamin D that
bodies produce from UV exposure prevents more cancers than it
causes. It's a concept that's been embraced not only by sun lovers
but also by the indoor tanning industry.
Many people who tan indoors do so to get a "base
tan" that will prepare their skin for outdoor sun, the idea being
that the controlled UV exposure of a tanning bed is less damaging
than the actual sun. It's this idea of controlled tanning that has
built the indoor tanning business into a $5-billion annually
industry. Nationwide, there are 25,000 tanning salons. The FDA
estimates that 1 million people in the U.S. visit tanning salons
every day.
But even though controlled UV exposure may reduce
the risk of burns, it doesn't lessen the risk of skin cancer. In
fact, UV exposure is considered so damaging that in 1988 California
enacted the Filante Tanning Facility Act, requiring anyone age 14 to
18 to present proof of parental permission before using a UV tanning
device and parental accompaniment for any child younger than 14.
Last year, California strengthened the law, barring anyone under the
age of 18 from using a tanning booth unless a doctor prescribes it
for treatment; it prohibits those under 14 from using tanning
devices altogether.
IF the popularity of sunless tanners, both self-
and professionally applied, is any indication, some people, at
least, seem to be getting the message about UV exposure.
Forty years ago, a sunless tanner meant QT lotion,
which resulted in an orangey stink bomb of a tan that didn't fool
anyone. Today there are more than 200 sunless tanners in all
different types of formulations, from lotions and gels to mousses
and, most recently, aerosols. Sold at drugstores and high-end
cosmetics counters, and costing anywhere from $5 to $100 a bottle,
they also come in a variety of shades and effects, from matte to
sparkly.
Most of the growth in the business has been within
the last three years, says Vicki Mayhew, senior consultant for
Sunless.com, a nonprofit website devoted to sunless tanning.
Colleen Sommerin, 35, has been using sunless
tanners for the last couple of years. "I have two small children.
I'm busy. I don't have all day to lie out in the sun, and we
shouldn't be doing that anyway," says Sommerin, an Australian who's
been living in Mar Vista for two years.
Even so, "there's a bit of an art to it," she says.
"The first time I did it, I ended up with big orange heels and hands
with big orange stains all over them, so [after] a couple of times I
was fine."
The key to successful sunless tanner use at home: a
good exfoliation 24 hours before application and steering clear of
any areas where the tanner might accumulate and look unnatural.
Mayhew suggests newbies give themselves two or three months and test
out three or four products to find one that suits them.
"People want to grab one bottle and have it work,
and that's probably not going to happen," says Mayhew, who
recommends mousse formulas for beginners. "It's going to take most
people some time to find the perfect product for them."
Most sunless tanners use DHA, a chemical that
reacts with the skin's amino acids to turn the skin brown. The
active ingredients in sunscreens that provide UVA protection tend to
block DHA's absorption, so sunscreen needs to be applied afterward
when the sunless tanner is fully dry. The products that can be
purchased at the drugstore have certainly improved over the years,
but they still leave room for user error, which is part of the
reason professionally applied, spray-on tans have taken off. With
spray- ons, a machine applies the tanner in as little as a
minute.
Available at tanning salons, beauty spas and gyms,
spray-on tans are applied in a private booth. With a cap over the
hair, plugs in the nose and barrier cream on finger- and toenails
and palms of the hands and feet, the customer is blasted with
tanning spray twice -- once for the front and back, and again for
the sides. Towel off, and voila.
Texas-based Mystic Tan was the first to offer
spray-on tan technology in 1999. Now 2,300 U.S. salons offer Mystic
Tans, and numerous other companies have jumped on the spray tan
bandwagon.
Like hand-applied sunless tanners available for
home or beauty spa use, spray-on tans are not permanent. They
usually last about a week. Depending on the package, a spray-on tan
costs $25 and more per session, making it one of the more expensive
tans around but also one of the safest.
"It isn't getting a real tan, so it's safer," says
UCLA dermatologist Ron Moy, before adding, "Why can't people just be
white and pasty?"
IF you want to study the tanning habits of early
21st century America, there's no better place than a skin-baring
bikini contest. It may sound like the kind of event that faded away
with the disco era, but companies such as Hawaiian Tropic continue
to sponsor contests as they continue to market new ways to get
brown.
This Saturday at Patrick Molloy's Irish bar and
restaurant in Hermosa Beach, 21 contestants are expected to compete
in a local Hawaiian Tropic contest that will send five winners to
the state finals in September. At the bar, the 150 to 300 observers
who are expected will be able to witness our continuing obsession
with golden brown skin.
At one of the preliminary competitions, Molloy's
was packed with twentysomething couples noshing on chicken wings and
salad between sips of tall alcoholic drinks served with curly
day-glo straws. The waitresses wore coconut-shell bikini tops and
flouncy miniskirts. All of them were, of course, tan.
So were the contestants, who, as a whole, sum up
our ever- increasing tanning options. They bronze themselves
outdoors and indoors, in tanning salons and gyms and spas, with
spray-ons, sunless lotions and airbrush guns.
Priscilla Tuft, 24, used a combination of tactics
to get the deep, golden tan she was showing off in her red bikini
during the preliminaries. Her favorite is the Mystic Tan, followed
by a UV tanning bed and running outdoors on the beach in San
Clemente. According to Tuft, she needs a tan. Strutting her stuff
onstage without one would pretty much have ruled out a win among the
eight contestants in Hermosa Beach that day. She did win and will be
onstage again Saturday.
"If you're white," she says, "you just don't fit
the M.O."
As much as Tuft needs a tan, she also likes a tan,
she says. It makes her look thinner and shows off her well-toned
muscles. It also covers up bruises. A nutritionist and fitness model
by day, Tuft is an ultimate fighter by night, throwing punches and
kicks in the rules-free, multidisciplinary martial arts she
enjoys.
"We're expected to be flawless," says Tuft. "Part
of being flawless in our culture means having a beautiful tan."
*
The tanner sets the tone: A guide to techniques
Today's tan fanatics have more options than ever
before. Here's a look at the methods currently available.
Outdoor Tanning
How it works: Tanning occurs when the sun's UV rays
come in contact with skin cells called melanocytes, which produce
the pigment melanin. UV rays activate melanocytes to increase
melanin production, which turns the skin brown, or tan. Melanin
production occurs over a period of hours. That's why most people
cannot tan in a single day but with repetitive sun exposure.
Pros: Most Americans believe tans make people look
healthier and more attractive, according to a recent study by the
American Academy of Dermatology. Outdoor tanning fans say they like
the feel of the sun, the mood boost it gives them and the idea that
outdoor tans are "natural."
Cons: In actuality, a tan is evidence that skin has
been damaged; melanin production is the skin's protective mechanism.
Excessive sun exposure results in premature aging and an increased
risk of skin cancer.
Cost: Free, except for the time it takes and the
few bucks you'll fork out for tanning lotion or sunscreen.
UV Tanning Bed
How it works: Tanning beds imitate the sun, using
UVA and UVB light to tan the skin. Tanning beds differ, but many
concentrate the levels of UVA and minimize UVB to stimulate melanin
production and produce a tan.
Pros: They allow the user to control the amount of
UV exposure, reducing the risk of sunburn.
Cons: The Food and Drug Administration, the Centers
for Disease Control and Prevention, and the American Academy of
Dermatology all say UV tanning beds are just as harmful to the skin
as the sun.
Cost: A 30-minute session starts at $5 and can run
to $25 or more, but it varies by place and whether the user has
purchased a single session or a package of sessions.
Sunless Tanners
How they work: Almost all of them incorporate an
FDA-approved chemical called dihydroxyacetone, or DHA. When applied
to the skin, DHA absorbs into the dead cells on the skin's outermost
layer and reacts with the amino acids to turn those dead cells
brown, or tan.
Pros: Sunless tanners do not damage the skin. When
successfully applied, they often look just like the real thing. They
are widely available at both drugstores and department stores and
come in a variety of formulations: lotion, mousse, gel, aerosol. The
user also has control over the shade of tan and which body parts
will be covered.
Cons: Most users have to experiment with several
brands and formulas before finding one that works well for their
skin type. Successful application takes practice. Some formulas rub
off or stain clothes. The tans tend to last only a week. Most
sunless tanners do not include sunscreen.
Cost: $5 to $100 per bottle, depending on the
brand. If professionally applied at a beauty spa, it can cost upward
of $100.
Spray-On Tans
How they work: Available in tanning salons, beauty
spas and fitness centers, spray-on tans are also sunless tans, using
DHA to darken the skin. But instead of applying the tanner by hand,
the user stands in a booth where it is sprayed on by a machine.
Pros: Spray-on tans do not damage the skin. They
are also the quickest tan in town, taking less than a minute to
apply. The tan is uniform all over the body, so there aren't any tan
lines, and the shade can be customized.
Cons: They last only a week and most do not contain
sunscreen.
Cost: Starts at $25 per session, though prices vary
depending on location and whether the user has purchased a single
session or multiple sessions.
Airbrush Tans
How they work: Airbrush tans are sunless, using DHA
to brown the skin. They are applied with an air compressor and
airbrush, or turbine and air gun.
Pros: Airbrush tans do not damage the skin. When
successfully applied, they often look just like the real thing. Home
airbrush kits are widely available at drugstores; professional
models are available through specialty retailers. Professionally
applied airbrush tans are also offered at many salons. The user has
control over the shade of tan and which body parts to tan.
Cons: Depending on the tanning formulation, it may
rub off on clothes. Application can be difficult at first. Airbrush
tans also take a lot of time to dry. They last only a week and most
do not include sunscreen.
Cost: Home kits cost $20 to $30; professional
equipment ranges from $150 to $3,000.
| [Reference] |
| Message No: 44722 |
| [Illustration] |
| Caption: PHOTO: (Cover)The beach is still
the place for sun by the bellyful, but sunless options are
multiplying as millions of Americans cultivate tans in an era
of cancer warnings.; PHOTOGRAPHER: Beatrice de Gea Los Angeles
Times; PHOTO: SUN WORSHIPER: Pavel Jurick suns himself
poolside at the Renaissance Hollywood Hotel. A solar tan is
free, but doctors warn that exposure can lead to long-term
skin damage.; PHOTOGRAPHER: Iris Schneider Los Angeles Times;
PHOTO: SHOWTIME: Priscilla Tuft competes in a Hawaiian Tropic
bikini contest, for which a tan is de rigueur.; PHOTOGRAPHER:
Annie Wells Los Angeles Times; PHOTO: SUN-KISSED: The cheapest
tan? Outdoors, under the sun, though doctors warn there may be
a price to pay later.; PHOTOGRAPHER: Beatrice de Gea Los
Angeles Times |
Credit: Times Staff Writer |